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The Brown Trout of Rio Gallegos

Some of the first expeditions to Patagonia, in the late 1800's, showed explorers that the vast, crystalline rivers and lakes of the Andes were virtually barren of any type of commercial or sports fish. In 1903, a Department of Commerce worker from the USA, John Titcomb, was commissioned by the Argentine government to study and address this situation. John, who was in charge of the Pisciculture Office back home, went out and found a gushing spring creek near Rio Gallegos that was cold, clear and voluminous, and made his suggestion. Following his advice, brown, brook, lake and rainbow trout, as well as four species of salmon were first introduced to the Rio Gallegos and other streams and lakes in the area on April 27th, 1906, followed by subsequent plantings in 1908, 1909 and 1910. Given a choice between a convenient escape to the abundant forage opportunity of the salt, or the relatively poor nutritional conditions of the Gallegos, the trout fled. Wonderfully, the sea-run browns have returned every year since, entering their natal habitat each October through May as chrome-plated torpedoes, ready to challenge intrepid traveling anglers. Mel Krieger, who has spent decades plying the waters of Tierra del Fuego and the Argentine Patagonia, calls it his favorite sea-trout river, no small accolade. There are still some large brookies in select streams in the area (we've seen specimens in excess of 5 pounds!) and scattered rainbows - what happened to the other species is anybody's guess, though the Rio Santa Cruz, to the north, still experiences tremendous runs of steelhead, quite possibly genetic offspring of those early rainbows.

The Rio Gallegos is a spectacular fishery. It's headwaters, the Rio Penitentes and the Rio Rubens, are born in the rugged Chilean cordillera; their confluence near the Argentine border form what most knowledgeable sea-trout anglers consider one of the best two such rivers in the world. Running for over 300 km through country formed first by glaciers, then volcanic hills and plains, the Gallegos finishes its trek to the Argentine Sea in wide-open coastal pampas. Truly near the end of the earth, this area is very lightly populated, with only a few huge ranches, one town (also called Rio Gallegos), and a very limited road system. It's not unusual to drive for 15-20 miles through this isolated country without seeing another vehicle!

The nearby town of Rio Gallegos has a population of approximately 60-80,000 inhabitants. For years the main industry was sheep ranching, with virtually all the wool produced in the entire Province departing the town's docks. Though the wool and lamb production in this area continues to grow, the popularization of synthetic fleeces has taken over the world market - it is likely the sheep heyday of the past in this region is gone forever. The more recent discovery of vast underground oil and gas reservoirs in the area has assumed top billing in the state's economy, followed by commercial fishing and tourism.

For many years there was also a thriving coal-mining operation on the upper Rio Gallegos. Today, the prohibitive cost of getting the coal to market and the more recent exploitation of liquid gas reservoirs in Patagonia have brought the operation of this historic landmark to an end. Not surprisingly, the mine had a markedly detrimental effect on the water quality and overall health of the river, so it's demise was met with some relief by anglers. Nonetheless, one of the more charming reminders of its past existence is the unusual narrow-gauge railway that runs the length of the river. Occasionally, fishermen can still observe a small, steam-powered engine chugging its way up a nearby hillside, an echo of days gone by.

The Gallegos valley is awesome, beautiful land, with a changeable summer climate reminiscent of Iceland. The terrain is grassy with rolling hills, backed by a view of the majestic Andean peaks. The air is pure, and the blue skies and stunning cloud formations challenge the attraction of the river. This part of Patagonia is a naturalist's dream. As you fish the river you'll see huge, ostrich-like rheas, guanacos (the Patagonian version of a llama), giant condors, fox and an abundance of migratory waterfowl, all a constant and natural part of the landscape. As well, during your stay you'll have the opportunity to experience miles of the Gallegos Chico, a classic, winding private spring creek loaded with colorful native brown trout in the 14"-18" range. All told, it is an adventure you will not soon forget!

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